Exfoliation is the shedding or
peeling of dead skin cells from the upper layer of your skin. It occurs
naturally in healthy skin but, like all body processes, it slows down
as we age and if our skin cells aren't getting enough of the proper
nutrition to function well. As we age, it becomes necessary to help the
process along. The new, smoother skin looks clear, radiant and younger, which
is the reason many people think more exfoliation is better.
But by over exfoliating, you're actually removing the only protective barrier that your skin has. If you remove
the barrier, then your skin is exposed to environmental toxins — not to mention
the sun, which causes the most damage to your skin. So the key is to use
products that encourage a natural cell turnover and keep skin hydrated.
Cell turnover in healthy skin
occurs, on average, like this:
·
In
your 20s: 14-25 days
·
In
your 30s: 30 days
·
In
your 40s: 40 days
And so on, slowing down by a few
days for every decade.
So, assuming that you exfoliate on
the first day of the month and you are in your 30s, then there is a fresh layer
of skin on the surface that won’t turn over completely for around 30 days.
There is no benefit to exfoliating
the next day or even the next week. Actually, if you do so, you will only
damage the already exfoliated new skin. It is plenty to exfoliate healthy skin
once per month — more often if you are in the early stages of correcting a
skin condition.
What should you use?
The only safe home exfoliator is an
enzyme-based product. These work by triggering the cells' own process of
breaking down in the right conditions and therefore won’t harm the “cement”
between cells that are still healthy. Never use grainy scrubs; they’ll scratch.
For acid peels, microdermabrasion or
other peels, it’s recommended to have them performed by a skin care
professional trained in the procedure. Microdermabrasion is a popular form of
deep exfoliation available from salons. Avoid their overuse. Two or three times
a year is enough to boost a home routine.
A Clarisonic is a good way to
exfoliate with sonic technology. It has different brush heads for different
skin types. You can also exfoliate with a washcloth, which you need to change
daily, or even with cotton pads. Another one which can be used is rice-based
enzyme powder.
Jojoba beads are a good way to
exfoliate mildly. There are also many homemade
scrub recipes to try.
Other all-natural ways include:
Honey:
Honey helps to speed up
the natural exfoliation process and has humectant qualities, which help attract
moisture, making it great as a hydrating facial scrub. Squirt a nice sized
dollop into clean hands and scrub face gently, washing with warm water.
Yogurt:
Yogurt contains lactic
acid, the same alpha hydroxy acid found in skin care treatments, only milder.
It soothes, smoothes and evens skin tone. Apply plain yogurt to face and let
sit 20 minutes, then rinse.
Sugar cane is a natural source of glycolic acid, another
alpha hydroxy that can boost new skin cell production as well as smooth and
soften the skin. Mix a half-cup white or brown sugar with enough olive or
grapeseed oil to make a paste and apply to face in circular motion.
Let sit for 10 minutes and wash away with warm water.
Papaya:
Papaya contains the enzyme papain, which dissolves dead skin cells. Papain may also heal skin and cause fine lines and age spots to lighten. Papain is most potent in young fruit, so select green papayas. Mash the fruit into a smooth paste and apply to face, leaving on for 15 minutes before rinsing with warm water.
Lemon juice:
Lemon juice is another natural
alpha hydroxy acid that removes dead skin cells. Mix one-quarter-cup each
of lemon juice, apple juice, grape juice and cane sugar until sugar dissolves.
Then apply the mixture to your face with a cotton pad, and leave it on for 10
minutes before rinsing off.
Follow exfoliation with a good
moisturizer for best results.
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